Our first day was spent mostly sleeping and exploring our hotel compound. Since the terrorist attack in 2008 on the Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai, tourist hotels have become like mini-fortresses throughout India. Cars are stopped and searched by several armed guards at the entrance to the driveway, there are barriers along the driveway itself, and all baggage and handbags are scanned and searched at the portico. People too - Martin as a man is searched at the edge of the breezeway,and I am searched behind a curtain by a female guard. Then we can walk into the hotel.
We ate nothing that first day except some cocktail peanuts (along with our cocktail - white lady for me and unalcoholic mint mohito for Martin) in the lovely atrium, which is famous for its high tea, missed due to an unexpectedly long nap on our part. Just as well really. We are going into our food lockdown mode, a system that has worked well for us in other travels. Avoiding meat and seafood, and raw fruit and vegetables (found in sandwiches), we are going to go fairly vegetarian and stick to cooked items, and local cuisine as much as possible. Things we can peel. Bottled water with a sealed lid - no ice. No salads. And although street food has been good in other places, we will probably avoid that - at least for the time being.
So Friday was our real Day 1.
We were met at 9am by our Delhi guy, a gentle affable man named Ajeet, and our driver Raj. He outlined the day and the order in which our sights will be seen, which is being dictated not only by the time of day (and thus traffic) but also by adjustments to be made due to the impending Republic Day. No visit to Red Fort for example, as it is closed in preparation for festivities.
So Old Delhi first. Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. We asked to go up the minaret so that we could see the Red Fort, and the rest of Old Delhi from a superb 30degrees. We left before we had to, as every Friday 25000 people come to pray, visitors are prohibited, and it takes several men several hours to lay out that many prayer rugs.
We had a short ride on a bicycle rickshaw through Chandni Chowk, which was just beginning to wake. A narrow market lane for bikes and pedestrians only - it promised to be heaving before long.
Raj Ghat, where Mahatma Ghandi was cremated and his ashes scattered, set in a large and lovely park full of school children.
Driving past Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temples to Humayun's Tomb, which inspired the Taj Mahal built 60 years later. the red sandstone comes into its own here, with carved screens and inlaid patterns broken up with the whitewashed walls.The marble tombs are shiny and pristine, all facing towards Mecca, Humayun in the central hall and his wives and daughters in the four satellite rooms. The whole thing is elevated by several extremely steep stairs and so the air is cool and fresh, and the view of the surrounding park, divided into quadrangles by a carved waterway was extensive. A very peaceful place to rest in peace, all these centuries later.
Past Connaught Place with its British designed shops. Lunch? Lunch. We were taken to a place that other tour guides took other travellers from foreign parts. The menu included sections: Italian, Chinese, Thai/Vietnamese, Mexican, Burgers and Pizza, and Indian. We weren't very hungry, but chose very much "First Day in India" foods. Tonic water, cumin basmati rice, and tea. That's it. That's fine. Off again.
Now to Qutub Minar, a truly spectacular heritage site. It was the first city of Delhi, built in the 8th century. A 73 metre tower still stands, what was once the tallest tower in the world, the so-called victory tower.
Colonades and gates and walls and stairs remain, but the most curious remnant is a slender black tower of 24 feet, 3 of which are underground. It is made of iron, and was transferred here 700 years after it was built.
Two things make this pillar so striking. The iron is so pure that it has not one iota of rust. The second thing is it was created in the 4th century.
The 4th century. No rust.
First of all, how on earth was that thing created 17 centuries ago with the technology as it was, in so pure a form? The mind boggles.
We rested with the other Indian and tourist groups, on the grass, watching the minah birds, long tailed green parrots and chipmunks scramble around between the foliage. Pigeons and vultures soared above,around the victory tower. And above them soared airplanes, as this lovely old city lies under the modern flight path.
Back via clogged traffic streets. Quick stop at the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, which I am sure gives a commission to guides who bring guests there to buy.No question the things are lovely and authentic, and worth their high cost. But we are not buying and as soon as this is clear, we are smilingly led out.
past India gate, closed off in preparation for the Republic Day parade. Lots of armed police and Indian flags.
I present this itinerary because in our old, usual way of travelling, on our own, via public transport, queuing at entrances and reading up on the history of each (again) at the site itself, doing all this would have taken us several days. But today, we are back at our hotel by 5pm, 8 hours after leaving this morning, feeling not overtired or sore. A little overstimulated perhaps, but everything was so well organized, with all our questions answered and stories told, smooth driving amongst the afternoon chaos, and a minimum of external begging or pestering. I think I could get used to this.
We ate nothing that first day except some cocktail peanuts (along with our cocktail - white lady for me and unalcoholic mint mohito for Martin) in the lovely atrium, which is famous for its high tea, missed due to an unexpectedly long nap on our part. Just as well really. We are going into our food lockdown mode, a system that has worked well for us in other travels. Avoiding meat and seafood, and raw fruit and vegetables (found in sandwiches), we are going to go fairly vegetarian and stick to cooked items, and local cuisine as much as possible. Things we can peel. Bottled water with a sealed lid - no ice. No salads. And although street food has been good in other places, we will probably avoid that - at least for the time being.
So Friday was our real Day 1.
We were met at 9am by our Delhi guy, a gentle affable man named Ajeet, and our driver Raj. He outlined the day and the order in which our sights will be seen, which is being dictated not only by the time of day (and thus traffic) but also by adjustments to be made due to the impending Republic Day. No visit to Red Fort for example, as it is closed in preparation for festivities.
 |
| Red Fort accessible only as a view today |
So Old Delhi first. Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. We asked to go up the minaret so that we could see the Red Fort, and the rest of Old Delhi from a superb 30degrees. We left before we had to, as every Friday 25000 people come to pray, visitors are prohibited, and it takes several men several hours to lay out that many prayer rugs.
 |
| other ladies in our mandatory robes |
 |
| laying out hundred of rugs for Friday prayers |
 |
| view from the minaret |
We had a short ride on a bicycle rickshaw through Chandni Chowk, which was just beginning to wake. A narrow market lane for bikes and pedestrians only - it promised to be heaving before long.
 |
| something to show a electrician to test how strong his heart is |
Raj Ghat, where Mahatma Ghandi was cremated and his ashes scattered, set in a large and lovely park full of school children.
Driving past Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temples to Humayun's Tomb, which inspired the Taj Mahal built 60 years later. the red sandstone comes into its own here, with carved screens and inlaid patterns broken up with the whitewashed walls.The marble tombs are shiny and pristine, all facing towards Mecca, Humayun in the central hall and his wives and daughters in the four satellite rooms. The whole thing is elevated by several extremely steep stairs and so the air is cool and fresh, and the view of the surrounding park, divided into quadrangles by a carved waterway was extensive. A very peaceful place to rest in peace, all these centuries later.
Past Connaught Place with its British designed shops. Lunch? Lunch. We were taken to a place that other tour guides took other travellers from foreign parts. The menu included sections: Italian, Chinese, Thai/Vietnamese, Mexican, Burgers and Pizza, and Indian. We weren't very hungry, but chose very much "First Day in India" foods. Tonic water, cumin basmati rice, and tea. That's it. That's fine. Off again.
Now to Qutub Minar, a truly spectacular heritage site. It was the first city of Delhi, built in the 8th century. A 73 metre tower still stands, what was once the tallest tower in the world, the so-called victory tower.
Colonades and gates and walls and stairs remain, but the most curious remnant is a slender black tower of 24 feet, 3 of which are underground. It is made of iron, and was transferred here 700 years after it was built.
Two things make this pillar so striking. The iron is so pure that it has not one iota of rust. The second thing is it was created in the 4th century.
The 4th century. No rust.
First of all, how on earth was that thing created 17 centuries ago with the technology as it was, in so pure a form? The mind boggles.
We rested with the other Indian and tourist groups, on the grass, watching the minah birds, long tailed green parrots and chipmunks scramble around between the foliage. Pigeons and vultures soared above,around the victory tower. And above them soared airplanes, as this lovely old city lies under the modern flight path.
Back via clogged traffic streets. Quick stop at the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, which I am sure gives a commission to guides who bring guests there to buy.No question the things are lovely and authentic, and worth their high cost. But we are not buying and as soon as this is clear, we are smilingly led out.
past India gate, closed off in preparation for the Republic Day parade. Lots of armed police and Indian flags.
 |
| getting ready for Republic Day, regardless of traffic flow over new paint job |
I present this itinerary because in our old, usual way of travelling, on our own, via public transport, queuing at entrances and reading up on the history of each (again) at the site itself, doing all this would have taken us several days. But today, we are back at our hotel by 5pm, 8 hours after leaving this morning, feeling not overtired or sore. A little overstimulated perhaps, but everything was so well organized, with all our questions answered and stories told, smooth driving amongst the afternoon chaos, and a minimum of external begging or pestering. I think I could get used to this.
The 4th century. No rust! Thank you for such a wonderful detail.. I love those moments when reading something that you did not know and are so glad you now know.
ReplyDeletepreaching to the converted!
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