If anyone ever needs a driver through the north of India, this is your man.
Hemraj Singh is the best driver we've perhaps ever seen, and he negotiated the wild roads of Rajasthan effortlessly, despite the crazies he often had to contend with. He was only ever able to drive an average of 50km an hour, given the uneven quality of the roads, and he always knew where there was a good place to stop with a clean toilet and safe food.
His English was good - not 100% fluent but good, and he was willing to answer every question we could throw at him, and we threw him a lot of questions.
He was also the gentlest of men. Loyal to his company, his first priority was always us and our safety. That car was kept immaculate and he always appeared exactly where he needed to be at exactly the right time. Some of the guides don't treat the drivers particularly well, considering them second-class employees, but Hemraj was always incredibly respectful to all of them. We valued his company enormously, even perhaps more than his driving capability, which is really saying something.
Drivers earn very little in terms of wages. they are expected to live off their tips, which I find unfair. Any tips Hemraj earns he really earns! When we go back to northern India, we will ask for him by name.
Hemraj Singh is the best driver we've perhaps ever seen, and he negotiated the wild roads of Rajasthan effortlessly, despite the crazies he often had to contend with. He was only ever able to drive an average of 50km an hour, given the uneven quality of the roads, and he always knew where there was a good place to stop with a clean toilet and safe food.
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| typical toll station sign in the north |
His English was good - not 100% fluent but good, and he was willing to answer every question we could throw at him, and we threw him a lot of questions.
He was also the gentlest of men. Loyal to his company, his first priority was always us and our safety. That car was kept immaculate and he always appeared exactly where he needed to be at exactly the right time. Some of the guides don't treat the drivers particularly well, considering them second-class employees, but Hemraj was always incredibly respectful to all of them. We valued his company enormously, even perhaps more than his driving capability, which is really saying something.
Drivers earn very little in terms of wages. they are expected to live off their tips, which I find unfair. Any tips Hemraj earns he really earns! When we go back to northern India, we will ask for him by name.
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| how to deal with an angry monkey that does not want anyone coming near the car |
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| anticipating other drivers who don't have good sightlines |
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| or anticipating the movements of large sacred beasts |
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| he even let Martin use his shoulder as a writing desk |
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