Ticket to Ride to India: Religions of India

I live in Vancouver, and there are a lot of Sikhs who have immigrated there from India, mostly from the Punjab area. The leader of the national New Democratic political party is Sikh, and Canada's Minster of Defense is not only my MP but also Sikh. Other than knowing Sikh's wear turbans, particularly the colour orange, I know very little about their faith. So we were happy to visit a Sikh temple in New Delhi and find out a little more.

Sikhism was actually founded in India, in the Punjab in the 15th century, primarily as a reaction against the caste system. Unlike Hindus, Sikhs believe in only one god and do not worship idols, but can follow many gurus. There is a holy book, called the Guru Granth Sahib, which outlines the tenets and teachings of ten gurus. Like both Hindus and Buddhists, Sikhs do believe in reincarnation and in karma, that what we do has ramifications beyond the action itself, good or bad.

Sikhs value family life and hard work, especially on behalf of the community. The faith's originator, Guru Nanak, advocated equality over the restricted options of the caste system. There were 5 key Sikh warriors collectively known as the Khalsa who embody the principles all Sikhs try to emulate: men do not ever cut their hair (but wear it in a turban), they carry a wooden comb, also an iron bracelet, and a dagger or sword, and they wear cotton shorts. These are what Sikh men do - but there is no set of principles for Sikh women - another male-oriented religion oblivious to the role of the other half of the population seen mostly wives, daughters and mothers.

Sikhism is not without its dark history. From the 1970s Sikh separatists advocating for a separate country started a campaign that grew more and more virulent, and then violent. In 1984, then Prime Minister Indira Ghandi ordered the removal of the movement's militant leader in a bid to end the acts of terrorism being committed. Soldiers entered a temple complex in Amritsar, Punjab, were fired upon and finally wrested control. The Sikh community was outraged, as much by the soldiers entering their holy site wearing boots as for the ensuing deaths caused by both sides. Indira was advised to fire her two Sikh bodyguards, but she refused, wanting to show solidarity with the Sikh people. Sadly, she was gunned down by those same hand-picked bodyguards. Anti-Sikh riots took place throughout India, and the next year, Sikh terrorists bombed an Air India flight between Toronto, Montreal, London and Delhi, killing 329 people. Since then, separatist sentiment has lessened although still simmers in pockets.

What I do like about Sikhism is its devotion to community, and helping those who need it, regardless of gender or race, a practice called "langar". Gurudwara Bangla Sahib is a magnificent building, topped with golden onion-shaped domes, that was built in New Delhi where the eighth Sikh guru stayed before his death in 1664. He was 6 years old at the time, but already a humanitarian, helping victims of cholera and smallpox. There is a large pond in the complex, which is thought to have healing powers for those that bathe in it, but we were only able (and interested) in dipping our toes in the frigid water.

the healing pool

delicate outside, and filled with mirrors inside

inlaid marble in the courtyard

Wearing no socks and covering our heads as customary when visiting Sikh places of worship, we were taken around the entire complex, which includes a school and art gallery and brilliantly mirrored interior space (no photographs allowed) and then to the back, where a community kitchen was set up. Every day, volunteers provide thousands of free meals to whoever needs or wants one, cooking everything by scratch. It was hot work in the kitchen, and this is winter! I can't imagine what it must be like in the summer.